Peony Dress

The Peony dress has been on my to-make list forever. I finally made it… although the finished dress doesn’t really resemble the Peony!

The most major change I made was to the skirt section. After following the pattern… with a bit of grading out to allow extra hip space – I just wasn’t happy with the fit. It looked nice on the hanger but didn’t sit right on my bum! After removing and reinserting the zip three times I decided that I hadn’t done anything wrong… the shape just didn’t suit me – it was too straight.

Luckily I’d bought more fabric than I needed so I whipped up a gathered skirt which is much more my style. It also gave me the opportunity to fix the hugely wonky waistline!

I spent a long time preparing to make this dress and made three toiles of the bodice before I was happy to move over to using wearable fabric. I used US size 2 for the top part and graded out from the underarm to US size 6  at the waist… then made numerous tweaks to the darts.

Using the smaller bust size created issues with fit above the chest because I have broad shoulders. When I added the sleeves it was too tight and pulling across the shoulders, so I took the sleeves out and put them back in with less seam allowance. This helped the fit but the sleeves are now a bit messy and slightly gathered at the top.

I might have achieved a better fit if I’d chosen the bodice size based on the correct size for my waist and then done a small bust adjustment. I think this would maybe allow for the wide shoulders/small bust… but I have no idea how to do a small bust adjustment. If you know of any good tutorials please let me know!

I wanted this dress to be slightly fitted and have some shape to it – whilst also being loose enough to be comfy for working at home/mooching around in. It’s not perfectly made… but it fulfills the brief! And it replaces an old denim chambray dress which is too tight and far too short.

It also ticks ‘denim dress’ off the Make-Nine-2020 list!

 

5 thoughts on “Peony Dress

  1. That’s lovely Jem & is a very good replacement! I think the sleeves look good with the slight gather at the top, they match the gathered waist. I’ve had this link bookmarked for a while, I’m yet to try it but I thought the diagrams were really clear & I could follow along and understand what was happening to the bodice shape. https://dixiediy.com/2015/05/small-bust-adjustment-on-a-2-dart-bodice-tutorial.html
    I hope it’s useful 😃 x

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    1. Ooh thanks Steph! That looks like just what I need. I think I might try a sleeveless version of the block I’ve made next, because the fit was good until I inserted the sleeves. And then I’ll go back to toiling and give this tutorial a go. I want to make a tweed version with longer sleeves for winter… which will probably cause me to spontaneously combust!

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